Sunday, 18 October 2015

Pattern Hack - turning the Pleatie dress or playsuit into a blouse

It's no secret I love the Pleatie Dress but with a kid who a) wont wear pants and b) won't wear anything elasticated around her belly I've had to hack it to a blouse to get the look I love but with a feel that suits her.

So of course you'll need your Pleatie Dress and Shortsuit pattern and all fabrics and notions according to the pattern. You'll need to alter the length of the top front and back pieces according to the table below. I like to taper my sides out on an angle very slightly to account for hips being larger than the waist.


Cut your top front and back pieces and facing pieces according to the options chosen using the revised length in the table above and collar and sleeves if you've chosen to use those. 

Prepare as per pattern steps 1-31

DO NOT DO STEP 32 - sewing down the placket... DON'T do this one yet - we will do it later in a slightly different method to the pattern to enclose the placket as there are no shorts or skirt attached to enclose it.

Continue from step 33-34

If using sleeves finish step 61-63

Overlock the bottom hem and fold it up the length of the overlocking and press (or just fold it up 1/4"), fold up another 1/4" and press - do not sew. 

Keeping the first 1/4" fold of the bottom hem folded up, turn the placket outward on the 3/4" pressed line you would have created in step 8 - so right sides are facing and the 1/2" fold of the placket is also folded up and tack this down at the second 1/4" pressed mark (along the fold you can see where my thumb is) repeat for other side. 
(a different view of what I've mentioned above)
Clip the corners of the placket and flip right sides out - poke out the edges  
Starting at the top of the left hand placket, sew down the placket till you reach the bottom hem, with your needle down, pivot and continue sewing along the hem line

Take care that your pleats lie flat when you are sewing over them.
Stop again at the right hand placket and with your needle down, pivot and sew up the placket till the top. You've basically sewn a big U shape.
Add your buttons or snaps and Tadah!!!! you've got a Pleatie Blouse

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